Life is Change

Day 10.  Cape Coast, Ghana.  930am - 81 degrees F with 83% humidity

Ok, ok... I suppose it's time for my first destination entry! Thank you all so much for the emails, messages, and wall posts... your interest in my travels and well being is so amazing and I love you all!  I've partly put off writing because the internet is slower than dial up and a 90+ degree room filled with 10 computers and 20 sweaty people isn't exactly at the top of the list of places I want to spend time at after work.  The rest of the reason for my reluctance to write is that things haven't exactly gone as planned.  Turning this blog into a place for my ranting isn't at all what I had in mind so I've been trying to collect my thoughts and weigh my options so that when I was ready to write I would only have positive words to share. 

I'm so lucky to have had my mom with me for the entirety of departure day!  If you didn't know, she is one of the most organized people ever.  If I had been alone trying to accomplish all of the last minute errands, I'd probably still be in MD enjoying the fall foliage and cool weather.  My last meal was the most amazing corned beef sandwich on rye with matzoh ball soup and pickles. YUMMMMMM.  We got everything accomplished with just enough time to get back to the house to pack and charge my iPod!  I had read a few other blogs and websites that stressed packing light so at the last minute I downsized my pack from a 60L to 44L, and still have room to spare.  I packed less for 6 months than I do for an average weekend trip.  Check out this list... I'm quite proud of it!

1 pair of pants (the kind that zip away into shorts)
3 t-shirts
1 skirt
4 pairs of socks
3 each of bra/undies
1 tank top
1 light sweater jacket
1 rain/wind coat
2 pair of scrubs (was supposed to be 3, but I accidentally packed 4 shirts and 2 pants)
2 ultra dry towels  13x20 and 33x20ish... incredibly small and paper thin.
1 pair of flip flops
1 pair of walking shoes
2 tubes of mascara
Mosquito net
Sleeping bag liner
First aid kit
Water Purifier
Nalgene bottle
2 books- Life in The Time of Cholera and Rough Guides to Africa
The usual toiletries (including a loofah!), all under 3 oz so I won't have to check my bag.
1 pack of organic beef jerky :)

Seeing as how I'm spending so long in one place I could have easily brought more and shipped stuff back or donated it when I finish, but I think I'll manage.  I have picked up a pair of shorts and am having my bathing suit shipped since I forgot it but other than that I'm pretty content with what I have.  Everyone looks at me like I'm crazy when they see my bag.  Most other volunteers have multiple suitcases, some brought more clothes than I even own.

The flight over wasn't too bad.  I was asleep before take off and slept the bulk of the 10.5 hour flight.  I immediately noticed how nice the Ghanians are, particularly the very generous immigration officer who let me through even though I had forgotten the paper with my host family's address.  The airport was a bit of an experience, with the electricity going off every few minutes... which meant the luggage belt as well.  Exchanged money, picked up a local SIM card and met up with Yami, one of the local projects abroad
team members.  He taught me the proper hand shake, gave me the welcome speech about how magnificent Ghana is and told me that I will never want to go home and then sent me on my way.  I stayed the night at the projects abroad guest house.  Three other volunteers arrived throughout the night.

Headed out at 630am with about 10 locals and 1 other volunteer in what is called a tro-tro, essentially a van, for a 2 hour bumpy journey from Accra to Cape Coast.  My first day in cape coast was mellow, a few hour tour of the small town and lunch, then met my host family and the other volunteers.  Accommodations are very basic.  There are now 6 volunteers in my house, 4 of them female, sharing 1 washroom and 1 electrical outlet.  So far there hasn't been too much of a timing issue with the shower in the morning which is amazing to me with so many people!  There are a couple German's, one Swiss, one Aussie and one Brit.

As the name would suggest the town is right on the coast and is located in the Central Region of Ghana.  My house is about a 10 minute walk to the beach and I am finding myself there after work somewhat frequently... specifically the beach bar, Oasis.  Oasis is also a hotel so it's a mix of locals and like minded tourists/volunteers.  Club and Star are the local light beers and Castle, my personal favorite, is the local milk stout.  Not the best stout ever, but I'm not really in a position to be a beer snob!  The food is all very similar... lots of stews served with some sort of starch.  My favorite is called red red, it's a spicy black eyed pea stew served with fried plantains... DELISH.   One of the host mom's in town offers cooking lessons... look out for date and time of the red red feast when I'm back in the states! 

Kakum national park is about a 40min ride from here so I got together with a few of the volunteers last weekend and did the canopy tour at the park.  Also stopped by this random monkey park on the way home which is run by a danish couple.  They bought the land with the intentions of opening a bar/restaurant and guesthouse as well as the animal rescue but things are coming together on African time, read: SLOWLY.  Seven years later and they have a quite nice sized animal sanctuary and dreams of a guesthouse and bar/restaurant!

So... to date my free time in Ghana has been most enjoyable.  It's not love at first sight like SE Asia was, but still enjoyable.  My role as a volunteer here has been a little less enjoyable but I'm trying with everything I have to practice greater patience with my placement.  The programs website was a bit misleading, I was under the impression that I would be in an environment conducive to learning about midwifery.  Upon my arrival to the hospital I was informed that unless you are already a qualified midwife time in the delivery suite is not permitted, per hospital policy.  Of course delivery isn't the only aspect of midwifery there is to be learned, but it's a pretty significant part!  I've spent my first week between the OB/GYN ward which is essentially a pre/post op ward for c-sections and other female specific surgical procedures and also with a midwife seeing outpatients.  Both departments were well staffed and did not have much need (or want) for volunteers.  The staff is so busy seeing patients my presence most of the time felt as if I were more of a nuisance to them than an asset and the last thing I want is to make their job more difficult.  After chatting with a few midwives and one of the surgeons it sounds like one of the local health centers would be a better option and so I am to start at a clinic later this week.  And if that doesn't work out... something else will, it always does!


Life is Change, Growth is optional, Choose wisely. -anonymous